MS Fridtjof Nansen Review: Life Aboard an HX Expedition Ship

Written By Kate Weiss

What is it like to sail on MS Fridtjof Nansen?

Sailing on HX Expeditions' MS Fridtjof Nansen is built around time off the ship. The days revolve around Zodiac and kayak outings, and the evenings around swapping stories of those adventures.

I spent two nights on board for a repositioning voyage from Vancouver to Seattle in September 2024. Rather than heading straight south, we detoured through the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve near Saturna Island, exploring coves and shorelines that can only be reached by boat. It was a short sailing, but it showed me exactly how HX runs a day, from the first landing to the last story told over cocktails.

Below, I walk through the landings, the learning, the dining, the suites and cabins, and the relaxed atmosphere that shapes the whole experience. You'll also find answers to common questions about the ship, plus two short video tours filmed on board.

MS Fridtjof Nansen at a Glance

MS Fridtjof Nansen is a hybrid-powered expedition ship built for polar waters and named for the Norwegian explorer, scientist and Nobel Peace Prize laureate. She is the near-identical sister of MS Roald Amundsen.

Detail

  • Built 2020, Kleven Yards, Norway

  • 490 Guests

  • Length 459 ft

  • Hybrid, diesel-electric engines with battery packs

  • Polar Class 6

  • All outside cabins, about half with private balconies

  • Restaurants: Aune, Fredheim and Lindstrøm

  • The interiors lean Scandinavian, with granite, oak, birch and wool throughout. It feels calm and uncluttered, which suits a ship where the view outside is the main event.

Exploring by Zodiac and Kayak

The heart of an HX sailing is time off the ship, and our route between Vancouver and Seattle was chosen for exactly that. We spent our expedition time in the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve near Saturna Island, a protected stretch of the Salish Sea with no cruise pier and plenty of quiet coves to explore.

From the ship's expedition launch, guests headed out in small groups by Zodiac or kayak. The Expedition Team guided every outing. They pointed out wildlife as it appeared, from nesting eagles and cormorants to harbour seals and giant jellyfish drifting beneath the waves.

They also explained the geology shaping the coastline. The headlands and high ridges, running north-south and northwest-southeast, are hard sandstone, while the bays and valleys between them were eroded from softer shale. Along the shore, we looked at markings left behind as ice sheets sculpted the islands.

For me, it was a chance to see a part of my home province, so close to where I live, through new eyes.

The pace was unhurried, and the guides welcomed questions at every stop.

Learning on Board: The Science Centre

The Science Centre is a central part of MS Fridtjof Nansen. It holds lecture spaces, touch screens, science equipment, a library and areas for hands-on workshops.

Between landings, the Expedition Team gave lectures, including one on wildlife experiences in the Galápagos, where HX also sails. It showed the range of expertise on board and offered a glimpse of expeditions further afield.

The session I didn't expect to enjoy as much as I did was extracting DNA from strawberries. You mash the fruit, mix in a simple soap and salt solution, then add cold alcohol, and the DNA gathers into pale strands you can lift out. It is simple enough for anyone, and a good example of the hands-on approach HX takes to science on board.

Dining on MS Fridtjof Nansen

The food on board was excellent, and the three restaurants each have a distinct role. Menus draw on Norwegian and Nordic traditions alongside international dishes, with ingredients inspired by the regions the ship sails through.

Aune

Aune is the main dining room on Deck 6, seating about 249 guests beneath floor-to-ceiling windows. Breakfast and lunch are buffets, while dinner is usually served à la carte, with occasional themed buffets. There was an impressive selection of options that cater to a diverse range of dietary needs. All meals here are included for every guest. It is named after the Aune family, ship chandlers from Tromsø who supplied polar explorers.

Fredheim

Fredheim, also on Deck 6, is a casual option. It seats about 64 with waiter-served street food at lunch and dinner: burgers, tacos, spring rolls, waffles, and more. The milkshakes are a highlight, and you can add a splash of alcohol to them. Open sandwiches appear at lunchtime, early risers get a light breakfast, and anything on the menu can be taken back to your cabin. Meals here are included for all guests.

The name comes from Fredheim, an early-1900s hunting station on Svalbard.

Lindstrøm

Lindstrøm is the fine-dining restaurant on Deck 9. It is named for Adolf Lindstrøm, the Norwegian cook who sailed on four polar expeditions and fed Roald Amundsen's team. Menus change every second day.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner in Lindstrøm are included for suite guests. Other guests can book dinner for an additional charge.

At Lindstrøm, I especially enjoyed a cheese appetizer served with berry sauce.

A Casual, Social Atmosphere

A relaxed atmosphere is one of the defining features of HX. There is no dress code, and guests and crew mix easily throughout the day.

The Expedition Team doesn't disappear after the day's landings. In the evenings they join guests in the Explorer Lounge, where there was live music and a steady flow of cocktails. We traded stories from the day with the same people who had guided us that morning. One evening, we watched a slow early-autumn sunset from the lounge, the long, golden kind of light that makes this part of the world so special.

Fredheim has a long, family-style table where guests can join members of the Expedition Team for meals. It is an easy way to ask the questions you didn't get to on the water, and to hear what the guides are most excited about on the voyage ahead.

The result is a ship where guests and the Expedition Team share the experience from morning to evening.

Suites and Cabins on MS Fridtjof Nansen

Every cabin on MS Fridtjof Nansen faces outside, and about half have a private balcony. I toured four categories, shown in the video below.

MB Extra-Large Suite

The MB is a lower-deck corner suite on Deck 5 spanning 474 sq ft, with large windows instead of a balcony. It has a spacious seating area with double sofa bed, a walk-in wardrobe and a bathroom with both a shower and a bathtub.

ME Suite with Balcony

The ME suites sit on the upper decks and pair a private balcony with a separate living area with sofa bed, spanning 237-301 sq ft. Most have a walk-in wardrobe. I toured Suite 914, named for Edith "Jackie" Ronne, the American who joined her husband's 1947–48 Antarctic expedition and gave her name to what is now the Ronne Ice Shelf.

MA Extra-Large Suite

The MA is the ship's largest suite category at 495-517 sq ft. Suite 801 is one of only two, side by side at the very front of Deck 8, with views forward and out to the side. It has a walk-in wardrobe, bathtub and separate walk-in shower, plus large seating area with double sofa bed and fireplace, along with private balcony.

XT Arctic Superior Balcony Cabin

The XT is a standard balcony cabin on Decks 7 and 8, and 194 sq ft. It has a private balcony, a double bed that converts to twins, a seating area or sofa bed that sleeps up to four, and a bathroom with heated floors.

What comes with a suite

Every suite category includes:

  • All meals in Lindstrøm, plus in-suite dining

  • Premium drinks, such as signature cocktails

  • Welcome Champagne on ice and a platter of delicacies

  • Daily laundry and turn-down service

  • A minibar with expedition snacks, restocked once free

  • An afternoon at Arakur Resort & Spa before embarkation, on Ushuaia departures only

Arctic Superior and Polar Outside cabins include meals in Aune and Fredheim and the full expedition program, without the suite extras.

More Spaces On Board

Beyond the restaurants and the Science Centre, the ship has plenty of room to unwind between landings. The video here tours some of the public spaces.

  • Aft pool deck: a heated infinity pool at the stern, two oversized hot tubs and a full-service pool bar, all facing the ship's wake

  • Panoramic sauna: on the same deck, with windows onto the passing scenery

  • Fitness centre: an indoor gym, plus an exterior running track and outdoor gym areas

  • Explorer Lounge: floor-to-ceiling windows and the ship's gathering place

  • Observation decks: outdoor viewing on Decks 6, 7 and 11 for wildlife spotting

Frequently Asked Questions

How many guests does MS Fridtjof Nansen carry? HX lists capacity at 490 guests. It is larger than many expedition ships, but landings run in small groups by Zodiac and kayak, so time ashore and on the water still feels personal.

What is included in an HX expedition fare? HX fares include meals in Aune and Fredheim, gratuities, select drinks, and daily excursions and activities led by the Expedition Team, including the Science Centre program. Suite guests also have all meals in Lindstrøm and the suite extras listed above.

What is the difference between a suite and a cabin on MS Fridtjof Nansen? Suites are larger, and every suite category includes Lindstrøm dining, premium drinks, daily laundry, turn-down service and welcome Champagne. Cabins include the full expedition program and meals in the other two restaurants. Some suites add a balcony hot tub, a walk-in wardrobe or a bathtub.

Is there a dress code on MS Fridtjof Nansen? No. The atmosphere is casual throughout, including in Lindstrøm. Comfortable layers and waterproof outerwear matter far more than evening wear.

Where does MS Fridtjof Nansen sail? The ship follows the seasons, with Antarctica and Patagonia in the southern summer and routes such as Greenland and the Northwest Passage in the northern summer. Deployments change each year, so check current itineraries.

How do landings work in Antarctica on MS Fridtjof Nansen? Antarctic landings follow the guidelines of IAATO, the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators. Only ships carrying 500 guests or fewer may land passengers, and no more than 100 people can be ashore at one site at a time, with one guide for every 20 guests.

At 490 guests, MS Fridtjof Nansen falls within that limit. HX divides guests into smaller groups that take turns going ashore, and landings are often paired with Zodiac cruising. HX aims to offer a landing and a Zodiac cruise each day, though weather and ice always decide the final plan.

In the Arctic, HX follows the guidelines of AECO, the Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators, which set standards for safe and responsible landings in places like Svalbard and Greenland.

What is the Science Centre? It is the ship's hub for lectures, workshops and hands-on learning, and the base for the Expedition Team. Sessions tie directly to the wildlife, geography and history of the region you are sailing through.

Final Thoughts

MS Fridtjof Nansen offers a comfortable way to reach some of the world's most remote regions, from the polar ice to quiet coastlines closer to home. Having also sailed with HX in the Galápagos, I've seen the same approach across the fleet: small-group landings, expert guides and a real focus on protecting the places guests come to see.

Her hybrid power reduces fuel use and emissions, and HX follows IAATO and AECO guidelines in Antarctica and the Arctic. Sustainability and responsible exploration shape how every day on board is planned.

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Ready to Start Planning?

An HX expedition isn't one-size-fits-all. The region, season, length of sailing and choice between a suite and a cabin all shape the experience differently, and understanding those nuances makes a meaningful difference in choosing the right voyage.

As your Virtuoso travel advisor, I can:

  • Help you compare HX itineraries, from Antarctica and Patagonia to Alaska and the Arctic

  • Advise on timing and seasonality for the wildlife and landscapes that matter most to you

  • Help you weigh suite and cabin categories on MS Fridtjof Nansen and her sister ship, MS Roald Amundsen

  • Coordinate pre- and post-cruise stays, flights and transfers

Contact me today to start planning your HX expedition. 

Kate Weiss
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